Summer is struggling. There are rumours that it will make a break for it later this week and hit 30 degrees. But today is ‘muggy’ (try saying that with a Brummie accent, the Sicilian finds it comedy gold), windy, cloudy. A good day to dry your washing, but definitely not a day that could pass for Mediterranean. That said, it is good enough to eat outside. Later we are cooking rabbit, marinated in herbs, wine and oil for six hours before the barbecue. But lunch is simpler, as little cooking as possible. I leave him to it whilst I take the spaniels out.
Although it’s nearly August, the allotment tomatoes are slow this year, still green and embryonic but the basil is going great guns. So this is a mix of bought (tomatoes, almonds, parmesan, olive oil) and homegrown (albeit a small contribution from the basil and some garlic).
This isn’t a pesto, bashed and tormented to destruction, but the ingredients that you would use to make pesto Trapanese (named after its supposed home town of Trapani, on Sicily’s west coast); the flavours are all there, but more distinct and less gritty. It is not as overwhelming as the jars of basil pesto most of us are more familiar with in the UK, I prefer it. This is the favourite summer dish of Giovanna, Ale’s cousin, who’s pleas to Eat! Eat! give this blog its name. He has memories of her making this continuously throughout the Sicilian summer. So, what for me was a first encounter, was for him a summer norm, familial, so we’re back to that dichotomy of Sicily in Brum again.
We ate this for Sunday lunch with a cold beer and a watchful, expectant audience of spaniels, apparently uncaring that it was vegetarian. That it is good enough to fool the spaniels indicates just how exceptional it is. Definitely a summer meal, imagine what it’ll be like when the homegrown tomatoes are ready!
Pasta alla Trapanse
Amounts aren’t set in stone, change them as you prefer – for oiliness, strength of basil or saltiness from the parmesan.
50g flaked almonds
4 very ripe tomatoes
1 clove of garlic
50g parmesan (grated)
25g fresh basil
4 tbsps Olive oil
400g dried penne or rigatoni
Put a large pan of water on to boil, and once it is, added enough salt to make it taste briney.
Whilst you’re waiting for this, chop your tomatoes into small 20p size chunks, mix with the olive oil, crushed garlic and a generous pinch of salt in bowl. Leave them be for a while, as you get everything else ready, the oil and salt will do something to the tomatoes, making them taste stronger, richer, more of summer.
Dry fry your chopped almonds in a heavy frying pan until they are the brown of a Sicilian who has spent the day on the beach, but keep a beady eye on them, as this is perilously close to burning them. Take them out of the pan as soon as they are done, to stop them cooking any further.
Roughly tear up your basil leaves
Once the water is ready and salted, add you pasta, and cook it for 6-7 minutes. Check the packet, don’t pay too much attention to it though if it’s telling you 12 minutes. Although we used Penne today, the Sicilian thinks Rigatoni is better, as it’s larger, and hides more of the ‘not pesto’ chunks inside to surprise and delight.
Once cooked, drain the pasta, then stir through the parmesan, oily tomatoes and basil, along with black pepper. Serve with a generous crunch of the toasted almonds over the top.
What starts as a steaming, mouth-scalding dish of pasta in sauce shifts to become a cooling pasta salad as you eat and chat and fend off spaniels, like some sort of Willy Wonker meal that transforms as you chew. Textures and flavours dance around each other and alter, the pasta stiffens, the oil is less strident, sweet tomatoes and crunchy almonds come to dominate after the first blast of hot fruity garlic. If that hasn’t sold it to you, then the spaniels will have your plate.