In a blog that is mainly about Italian food, this is going to sound very dumb, but this is a recipe that is really very, very Italian. And I mean that in a culturally alien, lost in translation way. I don’t say this to discourage you, but I think it stems from the fact that we only really grow pumpkins to carve in the UK. Other than that, and Covent Garden soups, we don’t really know what to do with them, they’ve just never quite caught on here. Then there is the weather against us. Winter squashes are, by definition, at their best, in the winter. Their flavour deepens with storage and they store well after their autumn harvest So the best time to be eating them is in the post Christmas lull, which is not perhaps the best time to be eating cold starchy salads in dingy Britain. Also, who has fresh mint growing in the garden in February? Finally, the mint, the vinegar, the sugar. What the hell? I just didn’t have enough life-experience to grasp what was happening the first time I tried this.
Perhaps I should try selling this better. For a start, there is deep frying involved and anything deep fried is, it goes without saying, good.
The first time I made this unsupervised, I made the stupid mistake of trying to shallow fry my squash, which just doesn’t cut the mustard. They didn’t brown, they didn’t crisp up; they just soaked up the oil and turned to mush. I gained new wisdom from the Sicilian: “basically, whenever I say ‘fry something’, I really mean ‘deep fry it’”
So assuming you have fried your squash in profligate depths of olive oil, you will have a plate of golden brown crescent moons of oily squash draining on kitchen paper.
Now, arrange them in a tray and douse with red wine vinegar, before adding chopped mint, salt, sugar and pepper. It’s hard to give absolute quantities, as each squash, is different, absorbing more oil, needing less sugar, and the mintiness of mint can never be guaranteed if you’re buying it from a supermarket. Keep tweeking, and don’t be concerned about sticking to hard and fast proportions.
Leave the sweet and sour and herbs to interact for a few hours, even 24 hours, and then eat as an antipasti, with bread (of course, as no Sicilian meal is complete without, at least, the option of bread) to soak up the juices. It works well with other preserved or pickled vegetables. I like it with artichoke hearts and cold, oily sweet peppers.
Maybe the first time you try this, you’ll be as perplexed as I was – a savoury dish that is sweet, but tangy and minty. But stick with it, work with the pairings, consider the bread to choose; have the patience to let it infuse for a day. You’ll become extremely fond of this dish, it will become a thing you look forward to making in the dark depths of February,
And if, in February – this cold dish from a hot foreign island seems just too alien, warm it through in the oven – the heat makes it more northern, more acceptable to a Saxon taste. There are versions that add chilli flakes for extra heat and another Sicilian version that is baked in the oven with onions. I have been known (when the Sicilian isn’t around) to add anchovies. All of these are good, and further justify the growing of rampant winter squashes if you have the inclination and the space.
Zucca in agradolce
One winter squash, peeled, deseeded and sliced into crescents 1-2cm thick.
2-3 cloves of bruised garlic.
Enough olive oil to cover your sliced squash in a deep frying pan.
Red wine vinegar (50-100ml)*
Salt and pepper.
*quantities will vary according to the size and absorbency of the squash, and your own tastes.
First put the cold oil and garlic in your big, heavy, deep frying pan.
Turn the heat on, and brown the garlic, then remove it from the oil (hang onto it though).
Fry the squash slices, in batches, in the oil, growing on both sides. Don’t put too many in at once, as this cools the oil, which stops the squash from browning and they’ll start to disintegrate.
As they cook, drain them on kitchen paper, then arrange them in a serving dish. Sprinkle over the saved browned garlic, chopped mint, vinegar, salt and pepper. Cover and leave to steep in the fridge for as long as you can.
Serve at room temperature or warm through – as you prefer.