This is a not-quite-thrown-together dinner – for a Sunday – when, in spite of everyone’s best intentions, the timing of your day goes to pot. It’s a thing to make together – a deux, if you’re kitchen is big enough!
Sunday evenings can be the worst – the back-to-work itchiness of something not done, something lurking around the corner. So Sundays have strategies – an occupy yourself, don’t have idle hands, state of mind. Chop wood, walk dogs, dig allotment, clean the house, go out – to the cinema – and in between all that – cook.
But this week, the dogs took longer than usual, the cleaning took forever and we decided to do some art (the Barber Institute – it’s great, go) and, go see Susperia (also great, unless you don’t like over the top gory horror, in which case, don’t go). This left an ever smaller window for a dinner, which, as we’d not been shopping, had to be entirely based on what was in the cupboards/freezer. Not quite Ready Steady Cook, but a long way down that rabbit hole!
What’s in the freezer dinner:
Frozen shell-on raw prawns
Wrinkled tomatoes (last of the allotment’s)
Linguine (we’re running low on pasta stores, which could spark an incident if not rectified soon)
Half a bottle of white wine
a lime (because we had no lemons)
A bag of unsalted pistachios
Starting with the defrosted prawns – shell them, and squeeze the heads into the bowl (don’t be squeamish, the heads have all the flavour) with the meat, keep the shells and heads in another bowl. Put your shelled prawns aside and transfer the shells/heads into a small saucepan with a just enough water to cover them. Now bring this to boil and leave to simmer for 30 mins – giving everything a bash and a stir occasionally. You’re trying to get as much flavour out of these as possible, concentrated down into as little liquid as possible – so watch that they don’t catch and burn.
Meanwhile – make your pesto. Bought pesto is often just too damn basilly for me, . But a simple, not so herby pesto can be just as good. Especially if made with pistachios. Pesto just means Bash! So it doesn’t have to be basil and pine nuts, there are other options available. Stick the pistachios into a pestle and mortar with some sea salt and get bashing. You’re not looking for a paste, rather, something coarser and with some variations in texture.
Now back to the prawns. Olive oil and a crushed garlic go into your pan, warming gently from cold. If I haven’t explained this before, you start with cold oil as it gives more time for the garlic flavour to infuse the oil. If you throw the garlic straight into hot oil, it just fries it, without allowing it to share the love.
Throw in the chopped up wrinkly tomato, and then the prawns. Cook through quickly, throw in a big glug of white wine, some lime zest, and then strain in the concentrated stock you made earlier from the shells. Whack up the heat to reduce it by about half.
While you’re doing all of this, get the water for the pasta on. As ever – the biggest pan you have and a stupid amount of salt. As soon as it’s properly boiling, start cooking the pasta, and cook it for less time than the packet says.
Once, it’s done, save a mug of pasta water, then drain the linguine, and add your prawns, plus a splash of the water – which will work its starchy magic and bring the whole thing together. All this in a saucepan with some heat under it.
Now eat it very quickly, because Suspiria starts in 45 minutes, and this is Birmingham. The traffic will be horrendous.